A breathtaking sunset viewed from an airplane window, with warm orange and pink hues painting the sky above the clouds.
Sharif Hussein bin Ali Mosque in Aqaba, Jordan, with white arches and elegant Islamic architecture

Jordan Itinerary Part 2: Dead Sea Region, Aqaba & Amman

If you’re planning your Jordan itinerary, we strongly recommend starting with Jordan Itinerary Part 1, where we explore Petra and Wadi Rum desert – two of the country’s most unforgettable destinations. In that first post, we also shared 7 reasons why Jordan is worth visiting, based on the moments, places, and people that stayed with us the most.

Now, it’s time to continue the journey. This post begins with Reason 8, as we move beyond the desert and into a softer, slower side of Jordan. In Jordan Itinerary Part 2, we explore the Dead Sea region, Aqaba, and Amman, sharing honest reflections, practical tips, and the kind of experiences that make travel feel meaningful.

Jordan itinerary: Art installation at the airport in Jordan, welcoming travelers with a modern cultural display

8. Floating in the Dead Sea

Before arriving, we read plenty of stories about the Dead Sea region. Some mentioned hotels charging high entry fees. Others described locals blocking access to the water. We also knew one thing for sure: after floating in such salty water, a proper shower would feel essential. So we decided to treat ourselves to a spa hotel. Soon enough, we realised we had massively overpaid.

First, the weather didn’t feel pleasant enough to enjoy the outdoor pool facilities. Second, the hotel sat in a strictly tourist resort area, and there was nowhere to walk. Even the closest restaurants required a car ride. Third, and most disappointing, the beach felt dirty. The water was full of rubbish, and the last thing you want is to step into it. Yet, ironically, entering the water was the one thing I wanted most.

After that disappointment, we refused to give up. We drove around and searched for another place to float. Luckily, a Polish tourist helped us, and thanks to that tip, we found a much better spot on Google Maps. The place was free of charge, cleaner, and far more peaceful than the hotel beach. It’s listed in Polish as “Morze Martwe bezplatna plaza i solne kry” (Dead Sea Free Beach and salt floes), and it truly saved the experience.

And once we finally floated, everything changed. The Dead Sea holds you without effort. It lifts your body like a quiet reminder to release control. For a moment, you stop trying. You simply breathe, soften, and let the water do its work.

9. Slow conversations with H.

After a bad first impression on the day we arrived, the Dead Sea Spa Hotel surprised us in a positive way. They cleaned up the beach the next morning, on the day we checked out. The room felt clean and perfectly fine, and the breakfast was excellent. They also provide Dead Sea mud for guests to use on the beach free of charge, which is a lovely touch and part of the full experience.

At breakfast, we also met H., and she truly saved this part of the trip. Her welcoming attitude felt warm, calm, and genuine. She came from Asia to work in Jordan, and she’s soon moving to work in Poland, our home country. We left Poland over ten years ago because we wanted to explore more of the world and build a different kind of life. That’s why it felt so surprising – and so beautiful – to hear someone speak about Poland with such excitement. H. looked genuinely happy about her next step, and it reminded us how much the country has grown and changed over time.

H. also shared something that stayed with us long after breakfast. The hotel sits close to Israel, and during the war, there were days when the tension felt frighteningly real. She told us that at times the whole building seemed to tremble, and even the large glass windows would shake. Jordan felt safe, but the fear still reached them.

It’s hard to believe that scenes like this still unfold in the 21st century. Yet here it was, quietly present in the background of an otherwise peaceful place. That conversation reminded us of something we often forget. Peace is not guaranteed. We notice it most when we come close enough to feel how easily it can disappear.

10. Aqaba ‘Christmas Market’ (if you visit in December) – Jordan itinerary

Aqaba surprised us from the first evening. It’s a relaxed Red Sea city, but it still feels full of little discoveries. The biggest one? A festive market that looked like a Christmas Market. Seeing it in a Muslim country felt unexpected, yet it didn’t look like the European version at all. The stalls offered completely different products, which made the whole experience even more curious and fun.

Aqaba is also a great place for affordable comfort. Hotels here feel modern, well-priced, and close to everything. Our stay came with a rooftop swimming pool, and yes – we actually swam in December. Even better, the hotel had a sauna. They charged a small extra fee, but once booked, the sauna became a private experience just for us.

And the best part? The hotel was only a short walk from both the beach and the city centre, so exploring Aqaba felt easy from morning to night.

Check prices and book Alena Boutique Aqaba hotel here

11. Walid’s Fish Restaurant – the most unique dining experience in Jordan – Jordan itinerary

Meeting M.

Imagine arriving somewhere and, from the very first moment, feeling like you’ve come to meet an old friend. For the purpose of this story, let’s call him M.

The conversation flows easily. As if you hadn’t lived in different parts of the world, developed different habits, or eaten different food. M. tells you that he now owns a small restaurant. Before COVID, he ran a much larger one by the sea and employed many people. Today, the place is modest, but what stays with you is his gratitude. He is still doing what he truly loves.

More Than a Meal – Jordan itinerary

At first, you think it’s cooking. But very quickly, you realise it’s more than that. What M. offers feels like a first-class, at-home dining experience, deeply personal and rare. He knows his strengths and shares them openly, like you would with someone you trust.

You don’t wait for your meal. You become part of this experience. First, you choose what to eat and talk about the price, which feels very fair. He shows you the fresh fish of the day, and you pick the smallest doradas. Then come the side dishes, including baba ganoush – a Jordanian eggplant paste made from grilled eggplant, garlic, lime juice, tahini, and spices.

Then something unexpected happens. You’re invited into the kitchen. You help. Cooking takes time, but the experience flows so naturally that time seems to disappear.

The Best Fish We’ve Ever Had – Jordan itinerary

When dinner is finally ready, there’s no need to exaggerate. We both admit it – the best fish we have ever eaten in our lives. And that says a lot, because we usually have very different tastes.

Outside, construction work has cracked some of the tiles in front of the restaurant. But don’t let the surroundings fool you. What happens inside is special.

As a small bonus for travellers, if you stay at Alena Boutique Hotel, this restaurant is only a seven-minute walk away.

More than the food, you leave with something else. A reminder that the most valuable souvenirs are not the ones you buy but the ones you experience. Moments like discovering baba ganoush for the first time – moments that quietly follow you home and stay with you long after the journey ends. One day, without really noticing when it happened, your grocery basket looks different. Rounded, deep-coloured vegetables find their way in.

Walid’s Fish Restaurant is located here.

Walid's Fish Restaurant - The best restaurant in Jordan

Walid's Fish Restaurant - The best dining experience in Jordan

Walid's Fish Restaurant - The best restaurant in Jordan, located in Aqaba

12. Amman’s Ancient Layers – Jordan itinerary

Amman surprised us with its depth. High above the city, ancient ruins sit quietly on the hills, watching modern life unfold below. A Roman-style theatre curves gently into the landscape, still holding the echo of voices from centuries ago. Walking among the remains on the hilltops feels a little like wandering through Rome – not in scale, but in spirit. History here isn’t fenced off or over-explained. It simply exists, open to the sky, offering wide views over the city and a sense of continuity that feels grounding.

13. Street Art Between Old and New

What makes Amman feel especially alive is how naturally the old and the new blend together. Street art appears everywhere – on staircases, walls, and unexpected corners. Murals add colour, movement, and modern stories to ancient stone. Some pieces feel playful, others thoughtful, but all of them speak to a city that allows expression. Walking through Amman often feels like moving through an open-air gallery, where creativity quietly coexists with history.

14. Food. Where to Eat in Amman?

Amman is a city where food quietly becomes part of the story. Between long walks, street art, and hilltop views, stopping for something sweet or warm feels almost essential.

Jordanian sweets – Jordan itinerary

Habiba Sweets is one of those places you don’t plan – you simply follow the crowd. It’s lively, fast, and deeply rooted in local tradition. We especially recommend knafeh. It’s warm, soft, and filled with melted cheese, topped with delicate pastry and syrup. The taste is surprisingly unique – slightly sweet, slightly savoury – and unlike anything you may have tried before. Warbat, with its light, creamy filling and crisp layers, is another beautiful choice.

Ramen

After sweets, we craved something different – and quiet.
That’s how we ended up at Roe, a small, smoke-free restaurant/takeaway serving ramen. The contrast felt perfect. Warm bowls, clean flavours, and a peaceful atmosphere offered a pause from the city’s rhythm. In a place where smoking is still common indoors, finding a smoke-free space felt like a small luxury.

Together, these two stops captured Amman beautifully. One rooted in tradition and shared sweetness. The other modern, gentle, and calm. Both are memorable in their own way.

15. King Abdullah I Mosque in Amman

I love mosques. Not only for their presence in the culture, but for the calm that settles in the moment you step inside. No matter the country, no matter the size, there is something grounding about the quiet, the rhythm, and the sense of pause they offer.

The King Abdullah I Mosque is especially welcoming. As a woman, you don’t need to worry about what you’re wearing. At the entrance, you’re kindly offered clothing that covers everything, allowing you to enter with ease and respect. That small gesture immediately removes tension and replaces it with comfort.

What makes this mosque unique is its striking blue mosaic dome, which has become one of Amman’s most recognisable landmarks. Built in memory of King Abdullah I, it also plays an important social and cultural role. It welcomes visitors of different backgrounds and faiths, encouraging understanding rather than distance.

Inside, the space feels open and peaceful. Light filters gently through the windows, and the city noise fades away. It’s a place to slow down, to breathe, and to feel the quiet strength of a living tradition that continues to shape daily life in Jordan.

The calm we felt inside the mosque also brought back memories of Istanbul. That same feeling of stillness, light, and quiet reverence – where history, faith, and everyday life gently overlap. Mosques have a way of offering this pause, no matter the country. If you’re drawn to places where spirituality and culture intertwine so naturally, Istanbul offers a similar experience. It’s a city where mosques, streets, and daily life exist side by side, inviting visitors to slow down and observe rather than rush through. Check our Istanbul Travel Guide here.

16. A Moment of Music and Presence – Rainbow Street in Amman

One evening, we stopped near a small, unique Moroccan tea place. Outside, A. sat playing a Moroccan string instrument similar to a guitar. The music was gentle, deep, and completely present. He wasn’t performing for attention. He was simply there, fully absorbed in the sound. People slowed down. Conversations softened. For a few minutes, the street felt held together by music.

It was one of those moments you don’t plan and never forget. Not because it was loud or dramatic, but because it was honest. Amman has a way of offering these moments – simple, human, and quietly beautiful.

It felt strangely familiar. The sound, the stillness, the way the street slowed around it – it reminded us of Marrakesh and the Ourika Valley, which we had visited shortly before coming to Jordan. That same sense of presence returned. Music not performed, but lived. A moment not created for tourists, but simply happening.

If that kind of experience resonates with you, you may enjoy our mindful travel story from Marrakesh and the Ourika Valley, where we explore life beyond the medina, quiet mountain villages, and the beauty of slowing down enough to truly listen.

Where to stay in Amman? Sanda Hotel

For our stay in Amman, we chose the Sandra Hotel. It’s a smoke-free, clean, and simple city hotel in a very good location, close to Amman’s vibrant streets. Because of that central setting, we recommend bringing earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

The rooms are comfortable and well kept, and the breakfast was good – just what you need before heading out to explore the city. Overall, Sandra Hotel works well as a practical, affordable, and smoke-free base for discovering Amman.

👉 Check prices and availability for Sandra Hotel here

What we carry back home – Jordan itinerary

As this journey through Jordan gently exhales, it’s not the landscapes that linger the longest. It’s the human traces left behind – quiet encounters, shared moments, and faces that continue to return in memory.

R. met us with warmth when we needed it most. Her openness, her gentle presence, and her excitement for what lies ahead reminded us how quietly hopeful the world can be.
A. guided us through the desert with calm certainty. His patience, his deep connection to the land, and the way he trusted silence as much as words showed us what it means to belong.

H., whose kindness at the Dead Sea Spa Hotel softened an otherwise difficult moment. Her care, attention, and genuine concern reminded us how much one person’s presence can change an entire experience.
M. welcomed us like an old friend. Through food, shared preparation, and simple conversation, he offered something far beyond a meal – a feeling of home we didn’t know we were missing.
A., the musician in Amman, played not to be heard, but to be present. His music slowed the street, held the moment, and reminded us how deeply connection can be felt without words.

Rahma

Together, they formed something we kept sensing throughout Jordan. A quiet thread connecting moments, gestures, and encounters. That feeling has a name: Rahma.
Rahma means compassion, kindness, care, and mercy – but also something harder to translate. It’s the way someone makes space for you without asking anything back. The way you feel seen, safe, and welcome, even far from home.

And it leaves us with questions that linger gently, like the desert wind at dusk.
What if travel is less about where we go, and more about who we meet?
What if the true souvenirs are moments of Rahma we carry within us?
And what if, in learning to notice it, we begin to offer it back wherever we are?

Amman, Jordan

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